CAMEO JEWELRY
Cameo jewelry has been popular for thousands of years, as people have worn carved images as personal adornments. The carved sculptures may be made from stone, coral, shell, glass and fine metals. Sometimes cameos are carved from hardstone, but more often they are made from substitutes such as conch shells, and pieces of Wedgwood porcelain china. Intricate hand carving with fine detail is the most desirable element, and settings usually have less value than the cameo they hold. The carvers patience and workmanship is the final single most important factor, with some value being placed on the subject of the carving on the cameo. Cameos hand-carved from the past are much more valuable than the laser carved of the present, with the cameo being one of the most treasured pieces of vintage jewelry.
Much of the truly superior ancient cameo carving originated in Greece and Rome. To this day, Italy remains the major source of cameo cutting. There are, of course, cameos from other countries, such as France, England, and the United States. France was renowned as a cameo center during the Renaissance Period (14th through 16th centuries), and it held this dominance through the mid-1700s. When Napoleon appeared for his coronation with a cameo decorated crown, cameos were all the rage in France. During the reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901), jewelry design in England flourished, and cameos were an important aspect of this period of English jewelry manufacture. Cameos were popular during this period as pins and pendants, and were often worn on black velvet, or pastel satin ribbons. With the rise of Louis Comfort Tiffany’s jewelry during the Art Nouveau period of the early 1900s, The United States boasted a wide array of fine quality cameos. Germany became an important center for cameo production after the second World War, when some of Europe’s finest glass cutters from Czechoslovakia migrated to Bavaria and other German states.
A cameo is a small scene of nature, or figure which has been carved in relief. The word cameo specifically describes a relief image which is raised higher than its background and which has been carved from only one material. About 1805, Italian carvers began using shell for their creations. In addition to shell, cameos may be carved from any opaque stones, such as agate, carnelian, onyx, etc. Agate (micro-crystalline quartz) is the most popular gemstone for carving cameos. It is popular because of its durability. Agate also comes in a variety of different colors. The most popular colors used in recent history have been blue or green. Many modern cameos are made from banded agate, which simply means that the agate has naturally formed bands of color running through it. Coral is another colorful cameo stone, and was popular during the Victorian era as a symbol of good luck. Other gemstones have also been used to carve cameos, such as opal, lapis, emerald, amethyst and ruby. These types of cameos or the most costly.
Designs included figures of gods and goddesses of mythology, the Three Graces, Bacchante maidens, chariot riders, and other similar figures. Natural scenes included houses, trees and bridges, gardens and gardening. This floral motif continues to be popular for modern cameos.
In contrast to the raised cameos which are so popular with collectors, there are also intaglio cameo designs, in which the artist carves down into the stone from behind which hollows out a recessed image. Originally intaglios had a practical as well as decorative purpose. When brushed with ink or wax, the intaglio can be used as a seal or identifying stamp to mark a letter or document.
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Dryness, aging and the elements can all discolor or crack a shell cameo. Cameo jewelry should be stored in a clean, dry place. This will prevent damage and corrosion to the frame. Even gold frames can become tarnished because of the oxidation of the alloys in the metal. Careful storage also helps to prevent the shells from becoming chipped. Cameos like to “breathe.” They do not like heat. Try not to store them in plastic bags or closed containers. Just sitting in a jewelry box is the best place for them. Finally, be careful of dropping them, since they are delicate and might chip or break.
Cameos are very desirable heirlooms and are considered genuine works of art.
August 18th, 2010 at 11:21 am
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