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Miriam Haskell has been called the woman who started the costume jewelry movement. She left the Midwest for New York City in the early 1900’s and the jewelry industry was never the same. She started her career managing a gift shop in the McAlpin Hotel, and in 1924 opened her own business. After teaming with Frank Hess she created a style of mostly handwired costume jewelry, quite different than what had been seen up to that time. The use of many tiny pearls and mirror backed stones (roses montees) required many hours of hand labor, making this more expensive than the average fashion jewelry for the time. In the past, the successful or high class woman enjoyed only fine jewelry, made mostly of gold and precious gems. When Miriam Haskell jewelry became popular, there was a new appreciation for contemporary fashion and fine craftsmanship determining the higher end prices on pieces of jewelry, more so than just the elements they were made from. Her style was soon imitated by companies such as DeMario, Eugene, Originals by Robert, and even more contemporary companies such as Stanley Hagler.

In the early days of Haskell jewelry, when Frank Hess was the head designer, Haskell put no identifying marks on their jewelry. As a mater of fact it was not marked at all until about 1947. Today the early unsigned pieces are recognized from vintage art work and advertisements, and by their wonderful detail, hand work and design. Stylistically, Haskell jewelry took on a third dimension that extends beyond the beaded strand. Using beads woven into filigree backings to create intricate and textural embroidered layers, the jewels of Miriam Haskell as easily recognizable whether they are signed or not. Because the company did not start stamping their jewelry until the late 1940’s, many of the company’s signature pieces do not bear the hallmark of Miriam Haskell.

Though Miriam retired due to poor health in the 1950’s, the company continued and remains in business to this day, creating modern versions of the Haskell style.